DIY Target Stand


Let me preface this by saying that I discovered the plans for making this from the Box of Truth website.

I have been thinking about building a portable target stand for a while and I finally decided to make myself one. So off to the local hardware store I went.

1-10′ section of Schedule 40 PVC pipe 1-1/2″ diameter

2-PVC L Joints

2-PVC T Joints

2-PVC End Caps

1-Can PVC Cement

Total: $20.21

Things I forgot to get: Firring Strips

Cut the PVC pipe into 7 16″ lengths. And start gluing things together.

VIOLA! Thats pretty much it. All you have to do to set up is stick the last two sections of PVC into the T-Joint uprights and put your firring strips in. Its light and portable. It is a bit too light so be prepared to fill it with sand or stake it down if wind is going to be an issue.

Just for display purposes I put some 5′ lengths of PVC in and propped up a piece of cardboard. I think I am going to fabricate a cross piece of PVC and L-Joints to go across the top of these thinner pipes so I can hang bowling pins or other reactive targets from it.

At $20 apiece, I may just have to make a few more…word to the wise though, if your hardware shop will cut pipe to fit take advantage of it. Hacksawing the PVC into the 16″ lengths was the most difficult part of the whole project.

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8 thoughts on “DIY Target Stand”

  1. I love PVC pipe for cheap ‘hack’ builds. For sandbagging the base on the cheap, I’ve seen people using sections of inner tubes filled with pea gravel.

  2. I’ve used PVC pipes on projects before (I made a camera dolly that worked pretty well—$30 investment). I’m all about using this cheap but wonderful material. It’d be great if you posted more do-it-yourself projects like this in the future.

  3. If you want an easier way to cut PVC, use a knife and notch the PVC where you want to cut it, then set a piece of string in the notch, grasp both ends and “saw” through the PVC. The friction from the twine will cut through the pipe in seconds. It’s ten fold easier then using a hack saw.

    1. Chris,

      Is there a particular type of twine that you recommend?

      I use a small hack saw now and it’s okay but keeping the line ‘miter’ straight is not good. The blade flexes and warps the line of the cut somewhat.

      I’ve thought about using a grinding wheel in my drill to smooth/straighten cuts, but seems like a lot of extra work for a hack project.

  4. Pingback: diy help

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